This past weekend, I traveled with LdM back to the Amalfi Coast! We arrived in Pompeii, where we walked through the modern side of town, walked through a Baroque church (where there was a Catholic wedding in progress), and purchased Buffalo mozzarella in balls (by far the richest and creamiest cheese I have ever eaten; I had to stop halfway through and purchase chips to eat with it).
Afterwards, we walked through the ruins of Pompeii, learning about the progression of events on that historic day. First, the volcano erupted, much to the confusion of the inhabitants, who had previously believed it to be a mountain. Ash shot up 25 miles vertically into the sky, darkening it and causing the lower half of the city to be buried in a hailstorm of volcanic rock. Those who had not fled suffered under collapsing houses. After the others returned to attempt to save them, the city was showered with ash, literally submersing the inhabitants in a heat so intense they were buried and burned alive. This allowed for the perfectly preserved plasters, which were among the creepiest but most fascinating things I have ever seen.
We walked through the old colosseum, the baths, the city center, an old brothel, the bars, the forum and saw the fronts of several old homes. It was an eerie sight, but one I will never forget.
Afterwards, we stopped for some fresh lemon and orange juices, and headed towards Sorrento. We were staying at a very nice hotel right in the city center (one I had admired on our last trip). We ate dinner in the hotel (I had gluten free pasta--unknowingly with fish sauce--, steak and potatoes, and ice cream). The girl next to me, a 'health freak' who always tries the odd regimens, tried to ask for gluten free bread once she saw that I had some. This angered me--she's not gluten free, and I never get gluten free bread at restaurants! The waiters immediately became confused, and mixed us up, thinking she was the celiac. She tried to explain to them that it was a preference rather than a necessity, and they did not understand. I panicked as they began pointing at me and her. Finally, one of the waiters understood what she was trying to say. He angrily picked up her fork, handed it to her, pointed to her food, and said, "Just eat."
I love how seriously the Italians take celiac. No other substitutions. Either you're gluten intolerant, or you eat the bread. I love it.
At dessert, the group was given delicious looking cake with pineapple cream. I got a wonderful plate of the freshest and most flavorful strawberries and pineapple I have ever had. Once again, my neighbor asked for fruit, like the celiac. They complied this time. But she ate cake, too. Whatever.
We went to a limoncello tasting, and I almost could not handle the strength of these samples. They passed out cookies and chocolates to help lighten the effect, but none of these were things I could eat. They finally brought out a tray of candies, and the man said to me, "You can eat these. Senza glutine." I greedily grabbed a handful and threw them in my mouth, eager to get the taste of limoncello out. I bit down on the hard candies, and they cracked open and spurted limoncello down my throat. Like some kind of alcoholic fruit gusher. I felt so sick.
On the walk back, my dinner neighbor complained of a tummy ache from all the sugar she ate, saying, "I wish I was Celiac so I didn't have to eat all these sweets. That way I would refrain."
Things not to say to a Celiac.
I had made a friend on the trip who lives near Granville--a fellow Ohioan! A group of us went down to the port to look at the night lights. It was the same port Deanna and Sammi and I had sat on during Spring Break. I felt nostalgic sitting there, looking at the moon and trying to pet the stray cats that walked by.
The next day, we headed towards Capri. Upon arriving, we were given a boat tour around the island, and went inside the grotto. I had a mini panic-attack inside, as we had trouble getting out of the small entrance because of the amount of waves crashing us in. However, it gave us more time to look in awe at the glowing blue water beneath us.
Afterwards, we walked through the town of Capri, and through the gardens and perfume factory. Then, Ginelle and I hiked to Anacapri, where we walked through several shops prior to returning to the port for a ride home. I had been excited all day for a gelato shop I had heard about, where there were homemade gluten free waffle cones made fresh on the spot. We descended back down the cable cars towards the port, and I went to the gelato shop. Upon arriving, the staff informed me that their shop was a "sister shop," and the one with the gluten free cones was back on top of the mountain--which meant purchasing two more tickets to ride the cable cars, and about a half hour of time that I no longer had. We had to meet our group in 15 minutes. I sighed, defeated. However, upon returning to Florence, I knew I would reward myself with a gelato with Deanna (and I did, a few nights later after our last Slow Drink/Wine Tasting with LdM).
I can see why my sister and her fiancé fell in love in this beautiful spot. Capri was by far the most breathtaking sight I had seen in all of my excursions thus far! I loved every minute of it...even those where I wasn't eating.
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